THE BACK GROUND ON THIS SUIT IS A BIT OF A MYSTERY. IN PARTICULAR WHETHER THERE WAS A MARKETING AGREEMENT BETWEEN CHANEL & AUCKIE SANFT FOR THE YEARS HE WAS USING THE DESIGNS, SAME FABRIC AND GOLD CC LOGO BUTTONS.
From the Square with Flair Blog 2011: One of the interesting vintage products that I see from time to time, are the fine clothes of Montreal designer Auckie Sanft. I am not sure exactly what years they were in production, but stylistically, the pieces I’ve encountered would date from 1960 to 1975. Their signature look was an interpretation of the classic Chanel tweed suit, and they did some very carefully selected copies of iconic French designer dresses, such as Yves Saint-Laurent pop art dresses from the period. But it is these Canadian “Chanel” suits and jackets that are remarkable. They are beautifully made and styled. They have gilt buttons with the famous Chanel interlocking double C logo. The tweeds are superb Linton (linings have the Linton tweed label), identical to those Coco Chanel herself selected. These tweeds are light, soft, and show an adept use of colour and texture; they are as visually satisfying as artisanal tapestry.
How does an Auckie Sanft suit differ from a vintage Chanel original? The linings were not silk, the jacket hems are not weighted with gilt chains, and they didn’t come with matching blouses. An original Chanel jacket usually uses 3 varying sizes of buttons; on a Sanft jacket the buttons are all of one size. They also lack the triangle inset of material under the arm where the sleeve is affixed to the body of the jacket (this gave ease of movement). Other than this they look, and can absolutely pass for Chanel. Like Harris tweed and other fine fabrics, it is incredibly durable.
I’m not sure if there was a sort of licensing agreement with Chanel or use of a toile or pattern when Auckie Sanft produced their pieces and put gilt CC buttons, but whatever their arrangements were, if any, they are an excellent example of how a coveted example of Paris couture fashion was translated for the North American, specifically Canadian market. For this reason, I’m sure there are examples of Sanft “Chanels” in the textile and fashion collections of Canadian museums.
Designer: Auckie Sanft / Chanel Inspired Canadian Design using same fabric/renowned Linton Tweeds
Dimensions / Size:
JACKET - 23½" Length x 18"across back x 22"sleeve length
SKIRT - 26 ½" Length x 23" waist
Circa: 1960-1975
Origin: Canada
Condition Report: excellent vintage
**This piece has an attribution mark such as a manufacturer’s label, a certificate of authenticity, or a production mark
**This piece has been attributed based on archival documentation, such as vintage catalogs, designer records, or other literature sources
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